In order for the soil that sustains grass to take in air, absorb nutrients, and drain water properly, it may need aeration. This process helps grass to develop deep and strong roots. It calls for putting small holes in the soil—either manually or mechanically—so that beneficial substances reach it rather than just the grass or dead and decayed matter. The latter inhibits fertilizer from reaching the soil, and it also encourages disease.

Where Aeration Is Required
Certain lawns require aeration. Among them are ones getting heavy foot traffic such as racetracks and play areas. Lawns that have too much thatch atop them or too much organic matter underneath will become compacted and, therefore, have trouble breathing. Aeration helps these struggling lawns.

Dry lawns are also candidates for aeration. To determine if a lawn is dry, stick a shovel into it about four inches deep. If the thatch is deeper than 0.5” when the shovel is removed, then the lawn is dry. Another factor contributing to the need for aeration is using imported sod. The finer texture of the sod inhibits proper drainage over the coarser grass beneath. Other lawns that will benefit from aeration are those located at newly constructed areas because construction traffic erodes topsoil.

What To Use
Aerate using either a spike aerator that pokes holes in the soil or a core or plug aerator that removes plugs and deposits them atop the soil. Since the spike machine tends to compact the soil on either side of the hole, the preferred way to aerate is to use the plug aerator. A strong person who’s in good physical condition and knows how to operate a lawnmower can use it. Homeowners can also hire a lawn professional. No matter who does the work, ideally, the holes should be 2” to 3” deep, 0.5” to 0.75” in diameter and 2” to 3” apart. Even when using a machine, several trips over the area will probably be necessary because only a limited area can be covered each time. Since most homeowners will not use this tool a lot, renting rather than buying is the more common choice.

When To Aerate
Employ this process only on distressed areas and when the grass is growing. For cool- season grasses, aerate in early spring, and for warm-season grasses, perform the process in late spring.

How To Start
Always begin with a wet lawn, so aerate after it has rained or water the grass thoroughly. If the aerator deposits the plugs on top of the ground, put them back into the holes, allowing the plugs to dry out then remove them and break them up by going over them with a rake or lawnmower. This action will help give the plugs to blend in with the rest of the lawn for a uniform look. After aerating, practice good lawn care by fertilizing, mowing and watering as required.

Whether an individual wants to boost a “sick” lawn or prepare a lawn to be more “natural,” aeration can help.

It can happen quickly -- you fail to mow your lawn a few times and it grows so long that a mower will not be sufficient for the job. For this guide, we will assume that your lawn has been unattended for quite a while. Here are some steps to cut down the grass in your yard so that it looks respectable.

Cutting the Top Layer
Depending on how long your lawn has grown, this is typically the most difficult step of the process. You'll want to use a strimmer to tackle your overgrown grass. You should be able to find one of these handy tools at your local garden center.

Start by using the tool in small sections. After you've gone over the grass and chopped down a sufficient amount, you'll want to remove the waste. Keep following this process until you are able to access 2 to 3 inches of your lawn. If it's been over a year since the lawn has been cut, the grass is probably going to be bent over.

After this first layer of your lawn has been removed, water the area and leave it for 7 to 10 days so that it can recover. This will start the process of a regular watering schedule so that your grass stays abundant and green.

The Second Cutting
After waiting for a week or two, your lawn is ready for its second trim. It's time to pull out your lawnmower and cut down the grass again. Set your blades to the highest setting that's possible and proceed at a slow pace to avoid clogging your mower.

Depending on the time frame that you've allowed your grass to be uncut, it may look pretty bad after you have finished this stage. Don't worry -- it will start to improve throughout the weeks ahead.

What Mower Should You Use?
The type of mower that you use to cut your lawn will largely depend on the size of the area. If you've got a large yard or a difficult area of grass, your best bet is to use a gas powered lawnmower. An electric mower will work just fine if the space that you are mowing is small in size.

Cutting Around Borders
It's highly likely that the edges of your lawn will look like a mess. Growth is probably impeding into areas that it shouldn't. You may need to use a shovel or lawn trimming border tool to ensure that it looks stunning.

Scarify Your Lawn
Similar to cutting the top layer of grass, this process will require a large amount of effort. Obtain a scarifying tool and begin by scarifying small sections at a time until you remove any weeds or moss that have accumulated. This will bring up plenty of dead material, which once removed, will allow for new grass to grow.

Time For Aeration
If you've got a large lawn, it's advisable to rent a machine that will perform aeration. Otherwise, you can take a fork and stab it into the soil so that tiny holes form. This will help create areas for drainage so that your watering does not pool on the surface.

Feed and Reseed
When Spring rolls around, purchase a popular lawn fertilizer and give your newly cut lawn a shot of nutrients. You may also need to reseed your lawn if you have any patches that don't have any grass. Within a few weeks, if you follow a strict watering schedule and frequently mow your lawn when it's required, the grass in your yard will look great and provide plenty of curb appeal.